What mosto is
Here, mosto is not unfermented grape juice, which is what the word means almost everywhere else in Spain. In the Sherry Region it is the wine of the year: fermented already, but neither fortified nor aged. Eleven or twelve and a half degrees, cloudy, unfiltered and almost always Palomino — the same grape that, once fortified and set into criaderas and soleras, would end up as Fino or Manzanilla. Mosto is what that wine was before any of that.
That is why it is not kept: it is drunk young, within the year, and in a few months it is gone. The saying sets the opening date — «Por San Andrés, el mosto vino es», Saint Andrew's day, 30 November — though in Trebujena the tascas open as early as late October and in Jerez the season stretches into March. Come spring it is over, until the next harvest.
The red flag
Out in the countryside and in the villages no sign is needed: when a place has this year's mosto, it hangs a red flag by the door. That has always been the signal and it still works, because many of these places have no website, no phone number on display and no fixed hours beyond «whenever there is some».
What is eaten with it is just as recognisable: berza stew, warm garlic with radishes, shrimp fritters, caldereta, and local cheese and cured meat. At some places you may bring your own tapa from home — an old custom, not an eccentricity.
From the directory
Wineries that pour mosto
Wineries with a listing in the directory that pour their own mosto in season, each with a shop open to the public.
Bodega Albarizas
Trebujena
See the listingBodega El Chocazo (Andrés Ahumada)
Lebrija
See the listingBodega Manuel Aragón
Chiclana de la Frontera
See the listingCooperativa Agrícola Virgen de Palomares
Trebujena
See the listingThe list is not closed: in Trebujena, for instance, the two wineries that bottle mosto are the two cooperatives, and the rest of the village pours it in the tascas listed further down. Know of a winery we are missing? Tell us.
And the rest of the year?
Once the mosto runs out, that same wine — fortified and set into criaderas and soleras — is what ends up as Fino, Manzanilla, Amontillado or Oloroso. That part of the story is told in the guide to the Sherry Region.
The Sherry Region